I have been drooling over stenciled floors for a while and was so excited to finally find inspiration to use them in my house! A painted and stenciled floor can add so much personality to a space. You can choose a pattern that perfectly fits whatever decor vibe that you may want to achieve.
I could not have done this project with Cutting Edge Stencils, they truly provided the selection and inspiration needed to really transform my bland laminate flooring into the pattern of my dreams.
Supplies Needed –
Primer (I used Zinsser Mold Killing Primer)
Dark Colored Chalk Paint (I used Rustolium’s Chalk Paint in Charcoal)
Light Colored Chalk Paint (I used Rustolium’s Chalk Paint in Linen White)
4 Inch High Density Foam Rollers
Small Paintbrush for Details
Step One –
Clean and prime the floors. I was taking my floors from a brown texture to a sleek solid so I chose to do 2 coats of primer to fully cover the existing floors and just give my chalk paint something strong to adhere to. I used the rollers to do each stage of painting.
Step Two –
Paint the base coat. The charcoal color was my choice for base coat. Some people reverse the colors and do a lighter color as the base but the charcoal color really stuck out to me and made sense with the pattern that I chose. I painted 3 coats of the base coat just to make sure the coverage was really good.
Step Three –
Start stenciling. My biggest challenge was figuring out where to place the first stencil. Based on my experience I will share what I discovered. Since I have laminate flooring the faux grout lines were not visible once the primer and base coat had been painted, so I had the freedom to start stenciling anywhere. If you are working with tile or something with defined grout lines, you will want to try to line up the stencils to get a full pattern inside the grout lines.
I decided to start in a spot where I could fit the most full patterns to start. The beginning was the hardest but you have that first pattern down, the rest is easy! Use the painter’s tape to keep the stencil in place as you paint. I used a few pieces on each side. I recommend the blue painter’s tape vs anything that has stronger adhesive because you don’t want to pull up any paint as you move the stencil.
One of the most important tips that I can share is to not use as much paint as you normally would on a roller. You want your roller to be nearly dry and take multiple rolls to get the pattern painted. This keeps you from having any bleed and that is super important! I used a paper plate to roll my paint on before starting to stencil. One of my biggest concerns was transferring paint as I was moving the stencil from one spot to the next. The good news is that chalk paint dries so super fast that within a few seconds it should be drying but for my own peace of mind I used a hair dryer to dry each area for a few seconds before I moved onto the next pattern and I didn’t experience any transfer due to wet paint.
I completed all of the areas that required full stencil patterns first and then moved into the more cramped areas that would only fit a portion of the stencil. The partial stencils are done the exact same way as the full but you would only need to tape down the portion on the floor and try to get the stencil as flat as possible onto the floor. I recommend rolling toward the wall or curve that you are encountering and avoid rolling in a direction that would cause the stencil to raise off the floor. It is nearly impossible to make these partials look as crisp as the full patterns but that is what the touch ups are for!
Step Four –
Touch ups. Once you have completely covered your open space, it’s time for touch ups! I started with the white touch ups first. With a small paintbrush use the white paint to fill in any unfinished patterns (you should have a few of these especially in the corners or hard to reach areas around plumbing). If you have areas where you were not able to get any pattern, just freehand the missing pieces. This is not a job for a perfectionist! When you look closely you will be overwhelmed by how hard it is to make each pattern perfect but when you step back you will see that this project is about the bigger picture, not the details. After you get the white details all filled in you can start on the dark base coat details. With the base coat you want to go in and fill any patterns that bled or any mistakes with white on the dark areas where they shouldn’t be. Again you will find probably a lot of these mistakes in the corners or cramped areas where the roller couldn’t make good contact.
Step Five –
The best part, the topcoat! Once you have all of this beautiful hand-painted work done, you want to get it sealed as soon as possible to avoid any wear. I recommend vacuuming the whole area just to be sure there is no debris on the floors. You don’t want to have anything underneath the topcoat. I did 4 coats of topcoat which may totally be overkill but I really wanted to make sure they were protected! The topcoat also provides just the perfect amount of sheen to make the patterns pop.
The whole process took me about 4 days just working a couple hours each day. I thought the whole process was fun and creative and I loved every bit of it! Since I had the paint on hand, my only expense was the stencil so this was a super budget friendly project and really made the biggest impact out of the entire bathroom renovation! I definitely plan on doing more stenciling in the future!
The idea of hand-painting a floor seems daunting but I hope this step by step helps give you confidence to try this yourself! Let me know if you have any questions!